Flats Stalker 18

23. Frame Preparation and Installation

Bill of Materials
1. The Strongback
2. The Pencil
3. Wood Butchering
4. Transom
5. Joining Panels
6. Round Chine Option
7. Jig Assembly
8. Stitching it all together
9. Tabbing & Filleting
10. Fiberglassing the Seams
11. Glassing the Hull Bottom
12. Fiberglassing the Sides
13. Fairing Slurry
14. Fairing - A Strategy
15. Fairing the Outside (Cont'd)
16. Skeg
17: Rubrails
18. Primer
19. Hull Flip
20. Inside Taping
21. Inside Cloth
22. Stringers & Knees
23. Installing Frames
24. Sole
25. Rod Holders
Photo Album
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Installing the frames ( ~ 12 hours, 1 person)

I decided to apply a layer of 6 oz, plain weave fiberglass cloth (bias cut +45/-45 by me) to both faces on Frames A, B, & E. This step isn't specified by the designer, but I'm hoping the extra glass will help protect the wood from getting dinged and deeply scratched. The impact from a weighted jig head can leave a nasty ding in unprotected wood. Also, I witnessed the results of what cast net weights can do to gel coat on a production boat, so it was easier to provide a little protection now than to go back later and try to repair any damage. Here's a couple of shots with the fiberglass postioned on one face of the frames.

This is Frame E with one side glassed and the edges untrimmed...

Installing the frames is another no-brainer step. The frame faces should be perpendicular to the stringer tops and faces. Once the frames are in postition it's spot welding and filleting time. Here's a couple of before and after "cleanup" on some fillets...





Here's Frame A with the access opening cut out. You need to leave 3" of material around the perimeter of the frame to maintain the designed strength for that frame...

Here's Frame B with tape waiting to be epoxied in place...

This is just a shot showing the "egg crate" layout of Frames C & D. The sole (floor) will be bonded on top the stringer and frames sections...