Flats Stalker 18

4. Transom

Bill of Materials
1. The Strongback
2. The Pencil
3. Wood Butchering
4. Transom
5. Joining Panels
6. Round Chine Option
7. Jig Assembly
8. Stitching it all together
9. Tabbing & Filleting
10. Fiberglassing the Seams
11. Glassing the Hull Bottom
12. Fiberglassing the Sides
13. Fairing Slurry
14. Fairing - A Strategy
15. Fairing the Outside (Cont'd)
16. Skeg
17: Rubrails
18. Primer
19. Hull Flip
20. Inside Taping
21. Inside Cloth
22. Stringers & Knees
23. Installing Frames
24. Sole
25. Rod Holders
Photo Album
Contact Me

Transom (~ 3 hours - one person)

When laying out the transom I made the commitment to powering the boat with a 15" short shaft outboard. My reasoning is that this will keep the center of gravity lower and will allow the poling platform to be at a lower level than a 20" long shaft outboard. Given my physical height (6' 6") there's no need to have the poling platform at any great height. Hopefully this lower position will aid in the stability of the narrow hull while I'm up on the platform. We'll see.

Here's a couple of shots of the transom. It's laminated from 3 sheets of 3/8" okuome for a final thickness of 1-1/8" with the glue lines. The side angles don't appear correct in the photo, but it's just the angle the picture was taken. The final thickness after adding the fiberglass will be pretty substantial.





I'll have to incorporate a shallow motor well when I attach the deck. Since I'll be using a jack plate, the motor well will be minimal. I may change the this and create a larger well to allow for the motor to directly attach to the transom in case I decide to sell the skiff in the future. Decisions, Decisions.

Next, I'll either assemble the jig now that the transom is ready, or create the long bottom & side panels.