Flats Stalker 18

9. Tabbing & Filleting

Bill of Materials
1. The Strongback
2. The Pencil
3. Wood Butchering
4. Transom
5. Joining Panels
6. Round Chine Option
7. Jig Assembly
8. Stitching it all together
9. Tabbing & Filleting
10. Fiberglassing the Seams
11. Glassing the Hull Bottom
12. Fiberglassing the Sides
13. Fairing Slurry
14. Fairing - A Strategy
15. Fairing the Outside (Cont'd)
16. Skeg
17: Rubrails
18. Primer
19. Hull Flip
20. Inside Taping
21. Inside Cloth
22. Stringers & Knees
23. Installing Frames
24. Sole
25. Rod Holders
Photo Album
Contact Me

Tabbing & Filleting (~2 hours - one person)

Now that the stitching is complete, the seams need to be "tabbed" so the tie wraps can be removed. Basically the step involves putting a thickened epoxy & wood flour mix in the seams between the tie wraps. Once it hardens, the filler has plenty of holding power to remove the stitches and fill the holes.

Here's what the filler looks like. This batch was slightly on the stiff side. You can apply it using a plastic bag and "pipe" it on the seams similar to a pastry decorator and then use a spreader to smooth it out.

A couple of shots with the seams tabbed & the stitches removed...


I allowed the filler to harden and then used a combination of a small block plane and sander to round over the seam. It's key that the radius is no smaller than 1/2". A smaller radius will prevent the fiberglass from laying flat against the edge and leave air pockets under the glass.

The bow area will need a lot of filler. Make sure it's stiff enough so it doesn't sag after it's applied. After the mixture has cured the bow shape can be created. Once again it's critical that the radius be greater than 1/2". Any edges that need to be sharp edges in the final boat will need to have the edge built back up using fairing compound and lots of sanding.

Here's some shots of the hull with the seams filled and edges rounded over, ready for glassing.