Flats Stalker 18

6. Round Chine Option

Bill of Materials
1. The Strongback
2. The Pencil
3. Wood Butchering
4. Transom
5. Joining Panels
6. Round Chine Option
7. Jig Assembly
8. Stitching it all together
9. Tabbing & Filleting
10. Fiberglassing the Seams
11. Glassing the Hull Bottom
12. Fiberglassing the Sides
13. Fairing Slurry
14. Fairing - A Strategy
15. Fairing the Outside (Cont'd)
16. Skeg
17: Rubrails
18. Primer
19. Hull Flip
20. Inside Taping
21. Inside Cloth
22. Stringers & Knees
23. Installing Frames
24. Sole
25. Rod Holders
Photo Album
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Round Chine Cuts (~ 2 hrs - one person)

Now that the long bottom & side panels are joined and the fiberglass/epoxy joints have cured, the last real step to perform on these parts is to make the chine cuts for the round chine option. If you have the plans, there are 3 parallel cuts, 1" apart along the chines on both the bottom and side panels. I don't have photos of this, but if you've seen one cut...

The only tip I can make at this point is to make sure that you make the cuts along the chine side of the panels. If you get in a hurry you may mistakenly cut the wrong side of the panels.

Process Check:

Looking back over the last couple of weeks I figured I would just comment on some observations that I'd like to pass along if I were to do things over again.

  • For parts that will be glued together - Transom, Stringers, etc. I recommend that the components be cut oversized, glued together, and then trimmed to the final dimensions. Keeping the final trimmed pieces properly aligned when clamped is a challenge since the glue acts similar to a lubricant. Uneven clamping forces will cause the parts to slide around. If you get the oversized pieces "close", you'll avoid a lot of adjusting and then you can trim them to the correct dimensions after they've cured.
  • Invest in a good jig saw. I had an older Craftsamn jigsaw that I've had for 20 years. It was a decent model, but I think the new Porter Cable & Bosch jigsaws are a worthwhile investment given the amount of material that needs to have curved cuts.
  • I'm very happy I went with the Okoume plywood. It was about a $135 upgrade over the 1088 Meranti, but the weight difference and the ease at which it bends are worth the extra investment IMHO. There is VERY little scrap on the nestiing of all the parts for this boat. I would guess that over 85% of the plywood goes into the boat. That's about a 40 pound difference in the final boat weight. It may not sound like much, but a 250 lb hull is certainly realistic with Okoume.